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First Look

09 Nov 2016
Mark Heckathorn
Off
babka French toast, black and white cookies, black and white palette, Boca Raton, Boylan soda, bubbe, bubka ice cream sandwiches, chinatown, chocolate bubka, chotskies, Dolci gelati, Dr. Brown's soda, egg creams, gelato, Green's & Ackerman's Bakery, HapstakDemetriou, health-conscious, Hyattsville, Ilyse Fishman Lerner, Institute of Culinary Education, Jewish deli, Jewish deli sandwiches, Jonathan Lerner, latkes, matzo ball soup, meat-free, Modern, Nationals Park, On Rye, pastrami on rye, Per Se, reduced salt, Reubens, salad, sandwich shop, sous vide, Stumptown Coffee, Ted Lerner, Thomas Keller, U-Bet chocolate syrup, Uptown Bakers, vegetarian, Wagyu corned beef, Wagyu pastrami, Washington Nationals

On Rye Opens Friday in Chinatown

On Rye, 740 Sixth St. NW, a 60-seat modern sandwich shop with a creative and lighter twist on Jewish deli food, opens Friday, Nov. 11, in Chinatown.

On Rye sandwich shop opens Friday at 740 Sixth St. SW. (Photo: Mark Heckathorn/DC on Heels)

On Rye sandwich shop opens Friday at 740 Sixth St. SW. (Photo: Mark Heckathorn/DC on Heels)

Owner Ilyse Fishman Lerner, a former New York City attorney, grew up eating at Jewish delis in Boca Raton, Fla., and previously worked in several New York City restaurants including Per Se, Thomas Keller’s three Michelin-starred restaurant. While working at Per Se, she also earned her degree in culinary management from the Institute of Culinary Education. The 2,550-square-foot restaurant started as a pop-up at Nationals Park last season. (Lerner’s husband Jonathan is grandson of National’s owner Ted Lerner.)

“We’re thrilled to open our permanent location, particularly given the great response we’ve had to our stand at Nationals Park,” Lerner said in a press release. “Our goal is to change the perception of Jewish sandwiches and other deli items as ‘heavy, special occasion food’ to everyday fare that you can eat several times a week, while still maintaining a connection to the comfort and tradition of the cuisine.”

Designed by D.C.’s HapstakDemetriou, the interior has a classic black and white color palette with black steel and brass elements, tile inlays and polished concrete floors. Coffeehouse-style seating in the front and more traditional seats in back are separated by a low wall, while shelves along the side wall display cookbooks, pantry ingredients and other chotskies.

The interior of On Rye includes counter seating in front and traditional tables in back along with a wall of cookbooks, Dr. Brown's Soda, Fox's U-Bet chocolate syrup and  chotskies. (Photos: Mark Heckathorn/DC on Heels)

The interior of On Rye includes counter seating in front and traditional tables in back along with a wall of cookbooks, Dr. Brown’s Soda, Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup and chotskies. (Photos: Mark Heckathorn/DC on Heels)

You won’t find bubbe’s recipes on the menu, but the classics with an updated spin. On Rye’s menu focuses on traditional Jewish deli sandwiches and other dishes made with fresh ingredients and modern, more health-conscious cooking techniques to reduce salt content without sacrificing flavor. Of the 10 sandwiches on the menu, half are vegetarian or can easily be made meat-free. Sandwiches and salads range from $8-$12.

A riff on the classic pastrami on rye sandwich features a choice of Wagyu corned beef, Wagyu pastrami or roasted turkey breast cooked sous vide – in a water bath to reduce salt — served with spicy mustard on marbled rye bread from Uptown Bakers in Hyattsville. Reubens abound — not only are the traditional sandwich, but a variety of vegetarian options will rotate seasonally. On the opening menu are both a smoked beet version as well as a charred broccoli and roasted Portobello mushroom cap one, in addition to a variety of seasonal salads. No fries, but there are both traditional potato latkes served with sour cream and apple sauce and oven-baked rutabaga and broccoli latkes served with a yogurt lemon sauce. There’s also matzo ball soup and salads including a Chinatown chicken salad with mandarin orange slices, crispy wontons, scallions and an orange sesame dressing.

Dishes include a roasted beet Reuben (clockwise from top left), Chinatown chicken salad, matzo ball soup and potato latkes. (Photos: Mark Heckathorn/DC on Heels)

Dishes include a roasted beet Reuben (clockwise from top left), Chinatown chicken salad, matzo ball soup and potato latkes.
(Photos: Mark Heckathorn/DC on Heels)

On the sweet side, there are bubka ice cream sandwiches, a scoop of Dolci Gelati vanilla bean gelato sandwiched between two slices of chocolate bubka from Green’s & Ackerman’s Bakery in Brooklyn just like Jerry and Elaine tried to get for a dinner party. Other options include black and white cookies and babka French toast.

On Rye will also serve egg creams, a frothy beverage made with Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer, Dr. Brown’s soda by the can and Boylan’s sodas from the fountain. Canned wine and beers, and Stumptown coffee round out the beverage offerings.

As for returning to Nationals Park next year, Lerner says it is to early to say since the season just recently ended, but she was very pleased with the stand and would be willing to go back if the stadium will have her.

On Rye is open from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily.

About the Author
Editor-in-Chief Mark Heckathorn is a journalist, movie buff and foodie. He oversees DC on Heels editorial operations as well as strategic planning and staff development. Reach him with story ideas or suggestions at dcoheditor (at) gmail (dot) com.

About the Author

Mark Heckathorn

Editor-in-Chief Mark Heckathorn is a journalist, movie buff and foodie. He oversees DC on Heels editorial operations as well as strategic planning and staff development. Reach him with story ideas or suggestions at dcoheditor (at) gmail (dot) com.

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